Of Moonlight, marketplace and merry making: Santhe @ The Kishkinda Trust

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An ordinary day in the life of Anegundi, in the backyard of Hampi! However an underlying excitement keeps the villagers and TKT members on its toes.

It is Purnima, the night with the full moon! It is the night of the Santhe- the moon light market organized by The Kishkinda Trust. This evening, the bazaar has come to life and is adorned by its lit corners and plethora of acts and merchandise. It forms a collage of many narratives- culture, commerce, transitions find expression and rendering a plural culture that is thriving in a seamless manner as if many centuries were rolled into one.

A fresh wave of energy released! At the Southern Bank at Talwarakatta, earth when sprinkled with water pulls you towards itself. It then gets spruced up with cowdung paste and rangoli, adding to the local flavor.
Groups of artisans, craftspeople, painters and sculptors, dressed in their best attires, have displayed their best wares that have been polished and cleaned. Paintings, stone carved objects, traditional door toranas made by children from recycled paper, paper products, banana fibre and  Ilkal products from the Bhoomi Society for Working Women… celebrating the multiple levels of living heritage through the tangible metaphor of a bazaar. The varied livelihoods supported by the marketplace reflect its intense cosmopolitan character.

That’s not all…Impersonators, magicians, acrobats, mendicants alert the guests to the changing moods, flavors, color rhythms and patterns that co-exist and heighten the Hampi experience! Watch out for the bell- tail tiger or the impersonated Hanumana or Shiva who use this luminal space to indulge the visitor!
On the extreme left, the performance space greets the visitor in its entire discreet splendor with its ambience of lamps, minimalist furnishing, decorative elements such as flowers, musical instruments, et al. Local and regional groups like the Chandra Kala Bhoomi and many others present their lyrical poetry through various mudras involving the hands, finger, eyes and body movements, seeking essence with the experience of Rasa, experienced by the performer and shared by the audience- rasika!

What a joy it is to discover more innovative food stalls for healthy food to nibble and cool beverages! Food is the ultimate craft. Find the women self help groups (and some men too), in the bazaar using cuisine as a canvas on which it’s different aspects are ‘applied’ as brushstrokes to paint a picture that evokes the myriad hues of the local culture. Watch them roast your fare on the fire and serve fresh local Kannada rotis with different types of chutneys and condiments, or indulge in homemade sandwiches, or exotic dosas- Indian rice pancakes, or simply sip chai, coffee or Horlicks milk!

For the uninitiated, the santhe as a means of reviving the medieval market phenomenon, offers culture, crafts, homemade delicacies and fun to promote clean and green tourism, and provides a platform to showcase creative local talent from different communities.

In those days, one of the most understated aspects of trade in the Vijayanagara Empire was the santhe or the weekly market, established to boost internal trade around the kingdom. Santhes played a very important role in the distribution of goods in the internal trade of Karnataka.

Well, the finale now! The performers now become a dance band with its infectious and inviting rhythms and antics. Seduced by this carnival, the visitors- curious and willing to learn the local dance moves- join the procession in a crescendo of celebration and merriment.

Whether it be culinary arts, performing arts, sports or local innovations, whether they be by individuals or as a group or as a community seeking creative expression, the santhe is a true cultural renaissance and does mean letting a million flowers bloom.

In the lesser traversed Anegundi, the santhe makes for a modest learning experience, with intimate local interaction. Understated, yet enriching, the santhe truly renders Anegundi a new identity, making it a must visit on the itinerary for every one visiting the Hampi WHS! 

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